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The search for Sriracha

The Thaiteparos factory is located on a quiet and dusty highway in Samut Prakan, close to a crocodile farm, a school and not much else. There, in a complex of grey, block buildings, the company manufactures and distributes some of Thailand’s best-known sauces and dips, the kinds you can find in any household, grocery store or 7-Eleven. Theirs is the business of condiments — soy sauces,…