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Soaking up the sun

Conjure up a mental list of old-fashioned dishes that still make the mouth water, and then notice how many include main ingredients that are dried or salted. Here’s a personal selection: nuea khem tom kathi sai hawm daeng (salted beef stewed with shallots in coconut cream), nuea khem cheek pen sen foy phat kap namtaan (shredded salted dried beef stir-fried with palm sugar), plaa chon taak haeng…